Overnight Train Travel Part 2 (1976 to 1996)

I returned to Europe in the (Australian) summer holidays of 1976-77.
After some time in London and visiting friends by train in Bradford and Oxford, I again caught the night train to Paris.  However the Aussie dollar had fallen and I had a mortgage so I sat up and alighted from the train at Dover, onto the ferry and back onto the train in Calais.

During the week In Paris I made day trips by train to Chartres and Normandy.  Then I travelled by day train to Toulouse and from there on day trips to Carcassonne and Perpignan then on to Avignon for Christmas Day and back to Paris.

After a day trip to the Loire Valley I travelled overnight in a couchette from Paris to Nice for New Year’s Eve.  New Year’s Day saw trips to Monaco by bus and Cannes by train and then I again took a couchette for an overnight trip to Rome.

Basing myself in Rome I took 2 long day return trips to Naples. On one day I toured Pompeii and the other day I climbed Mt Vesuvius. Most of the way on foot as I kept missing buses.

Leaving Rome, I travelled by train to Florence, took a day trip to Pisa and then on to Venice.

I had a memorable trip to Innsbruck. I caught the train from Venice to Verona and had reserved a seat on the express to Innsbruck. On arrival in Verona I found the express had been cancelled so was refunded my booking fee. I used this to buy some Morning tea, I had got rid of all my Italian lira. I boarded a slower train and the conductor said “Quo vadis?’ It was some of the small Italian I knew. I answered “Innsbruck” and he said “Non”
He took me along the corridor to a map, pointed at the Brenner Pass and said “Chuiso, neve” ‘Closed, snow’
He directed me to catch a branch line train up the mountain. I am unable to discover this line today. Perhaps it is closed. It may have been a rack railway. I only remember waiting at the top for about 3 hours for a train down the other side.  The snow was waist deep and I had no cash, only travellers cheques so was starving by the time I finally reached Innsbruck. How wonderful is the Euro for travel these days

I used day trains to travel to Vienna, back to Salzburg, on to Munich (yet again), Heidelberg and Frankfurt to connect with a flight home.

In 1979, late August/early September, I went to a conference in Melbourne and travelled both ways in a roomette on the Southern Aurora. So sad that it was discontinued a few years later. It was comfortable and the dining car provided a good dinner and breakfast.

In 1980 I again returned to Europe. After visiting a Greek Island, I travelled by train from Athens to Patras and boarded a ferry for 24 hours to Brindisi in Italy travelling on deck in a lounge chair. However I again took a couchette to travel by train to Milan.
This was followed by day trains to Lucerne then Geneva. However from Geneva I travelled in a couchette all the way through France to the Spanish border.
In those days an Australian needed a visa to enter Spain so it was necessary to alight and pass through customs at the border (possibly Perpignan) then I caught a local train to Tossa de Mar on the Costa Brava.  Searching today I find that while there are no overnight trains from Switzerland to Spain, there are also no border formalities. There are no trains now to Tossa de Mar but I may have transferred to a bus but I usually avoided that.

After 3 nights in Tossa de Mar I travelled to Barcelona about 2 hours away and after a night there I again was in a couchette to Madrid. I remember sharing with a Swiss family. Three nights later another train in a couchette took me to Paris. That was memorable because I shared with a Japanese man, a Frenchman and possibly a Spanish man. Any conversation involved the Japanese man speaking to me in English, I translated into French and that was translated into Spanish??  then reversed. 

The rest of my trips were in Day trains to Fribourg, across country to Munich then Oberammergau for my first attendance at the Passion Play then by bus on the Romantic Way as far as Rothenburg where I stayed the night then the next day caught local trains to Cologne. Then I went to Amsterdam and back through Brussels to Ostende for the ferry to Dover and train to London. I travelled north by train to stay with friends in Bradford. Back in London, I flew to New York. I caught a train to Boston but flew from there to San Francisco and home.

I did not leave Australia for the next 17 years. Summer holidays were also the bushfire period when I did not want to be too far from my house.  I was also busy paying off my mortgage and establishing a garden.

In May 1982, as mentioned earlier, I sampled the new XPT train with my mother to Orange and Dubbo.

In September 1984 I travelled to Coffs Harbour for a weekend conference and took a sleeper in the North Coast Mail and returned also in a sleeper in the North Coast Express. Neither train runs now. I again went to another weekend conference in Coffs Harbour in 1995 but went up in the Brisbane XPT sitting up and arriving about 1am.   I returned in the Grafton XPT on the Monday having obtained a day off work.

In October 1996 I went to Melbourne for the week and travelled on the XPT both ways. I did return in the Overnight Sydney-Melbourne XPT which does not compare with the Southern Aurora. It is necessary to share a compartment with a stranger and  meals are in take away boxes, best to have dinner before departure.

 In 1997 I returned to overseas travel, to North America

Overnight Train Travel (Part 1 1954? to 1974)

I have just read http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/sep/12/europe-night-trains-sleeper-service that overnight trains are to be discontinued in much of Western Europe next year.  This is disappointing as I had hoped to travel on the night train from Paris to Munich next May.
I love overnight train travel and began to reminisce about my experiences.

My first overnight travel was while I was in Primary school in the mid 1950’s, I think 1954.  My Aunt took me on a journey to the Central West of NSW.  It was the first long rail trip of my life and I caught the bug.  Prior to that I had been to Newcastle, the Central Coast and the Blue Mountains but no further.
We travelled in the Central West Daylight Express from Sydney to Orange and, after 24 hours there, continued onto Wellington where we stayed in the Hotel Wellington.  I always imagined it was above the station and was surprised to find on a visit in 2012 that it was across the road.
After one day wandering Wellington, the next morning we caught the Mail train to Dubbo where we changed to the diesel 600/700 railcar set. These were fairly new in those days.

We alighted at Nyngan for lunch and a walk around while the train continued on to Cobar.  Catching it on the way back we returned to Dubbo and, I guess, the Mail to Wellington.
The following morning saw us again on the morning train to Dubbo and, after a day there , we were back on the night Dubbo Mail but this time all the way back to Sydney.
My Aunt’s boarder/friend, the relationship was not explained to a young boy like me :-), was a railway ticket inspector.  I think at Orange, but it may have been at Bathurst, he placed us in a dogbox carriage and locked the door so we had the compartment to ourselves.  Dog box carriages had no corridor. Each compartment had its own toilet and the seats went right across the train so plenty of room, especially for a 10-11 year old to stretch out.

This trip was so basic to my love of railways that I repeated it in part in 1982 with my Mother in the early days of the XPT.  We stayed 24 hours in Orange then went on to Dubbo for a few nights and returned direct again by XPT to Sydney.  Then, as mentioned above, I travelled through to Dubbo on the XPT in 2012 and after renting a car to visit the Zoo, Warrumbungles, Gunnedah and Wellington. I returned to Sydney, again with 24 hours in Orange.  Sadly there are now no passenger trains to Nyngan and no overnight Mails anywhere.  With just one passenger train (XPT) per day to Dubbo, I had to resort to car rental.

In later years my Aunt took me to Melbourne on the Daylight and then we did a grand trip to Adelaide. We travelled overnight with a sleeper in the Parkes Mail to Parkes. After breakfast we boarded the diesel Silver City Comet to Broken Hill.

At Broken Hill we were transferred by bus to the narrow gauge Sulphide Street station and what was then called the Silverton Tramway. It was called a tramway as the government did not allow private ownership of railways. I thought the engine was very impressive. My research has found this, now restored elsewhere in South Australia.

The sleeping car was also impressive for its time with a small lounge at one end. I remember staying up talking rather late which was not good as we had to change in Terowie at about 5.30 am to another diesel set (Bluebird?) on the broad gauge into Adelaide.

After several days in Adelaide we caught the Overland Express to Melbourne, again with a sleeper.  I cannot remember if we returned to Sydney on the overnight or daylight train. 
My Aunt also took me to Brisbane in 1957 but that was a 2 day coach trip each way with overnights in Nambucca Heads and Urunga. However we extensively explored the Brisbane suburban trains which were still steam hauled.
There was also a trip by train to Cooma to see the early development of the Snowy Mountain scheme but we returned by plane from Canberra. That was my first flight and had nowhere near the influence on me as the train journeys.

I guess I became too old to continue to travel with my maiden Aunt.  I did make one trip with some school friends sitting up in the overnight express to Albury and then returning on the Daylight the next day.

Sitting up all night in a train has not been attractive since although it did feature in my next few overnight journeys as a teacher with the Travel Club at Kingsgrove High School.
In 1967 we went to North Queensland and sat up from Sydney to Brisbane.  Fortunately we had sleepers on the Sunshine Express from there for 2 nights to Townsville.  In fact that was great fun for a group travel.  I remember one teacher (Biology) running beside the train with a net after butterflies. There was no dining car and meals were taken in Railway Refreshment Rooms. We returned on the Sunlander with much better facilities but the Sunshine Express had been fun. We again sat up all night on the Brisbane Limited Express to Sydney.

I organised a similar school trip in 1971 and because of costs we again sat up each way between Sydney and Brisbane.  However the Sunlander had cheaper sleeper accommodation and involved 2 nights each way between Brisbane and Townsville.

in 1971 we took a trip to Tasmania. The first 10 days were by coach across to Adelaide and then around the coast to Melbourne. From there we flew to Launceston.  After 2 weeks around Tasmania by coach we flew back from Launceston to Melbourne then sat up on the overnight Spirit of Progress to Sydney.  Despite my love of train travel I thought that was an anti-climax and so when I repeated the tour in 1974 we flew all the way from Launceston to Sydney.

Otherwise, during those years  when I was in my 20’s, I had a car and little interest in train travel. I regret that now as many lines were closed in the following years.

In 1974 I took leave and headed on the big Overseas Tour. There was one overnight train journey in India from Jaipur to Delhi.  I travelled to Jaipur by bus but the Monsoon set in and that was no longer a safe way to travel so I returned by train. I was taken to the station by a hotel employee who arranged  the purchase of a ticket, then for a porter to get me a seat but not to hand over any money until I was sitting in the seat. I later discovered the porter had bargained and bribed the train official for my seat. The train was slow. I was told to keep my camera safe under my pillow. As in European couchettes, we were given a pillow and blanket and shared with at least 3 others.  

On arrival in London, I purchased a Kombi van which I drove around England, Scotland and Wales then by ferry to Oostende and through Belgium to Amsterdam. I left it in Rotterdam while I took a 3 night Rhine cruise to Frankfurt and returned by train to Rotterdam.  Copenhagen, Goteburg and Oslo followed where I again left the Kombi and took a train to Myrdal and down to Flam.

Then on a cruise along the Sognefjord and back to Oslo. I was getting tired of the loneliness of driving by oneself but took the Kombi overnight by ferry back to Copenhagen then down to Lübeck, Hanover and visited with friends in the English forces somewhere near Dortmund.
On leaving them, I headed for Munich only to have the Kombi engine pack in. I was told it needed a new engine and took nearly all my money to buy it and I returned to my friends. That was before ATMs gave easy access to money and I had arranged for money to be sent to a bank in Munich.
Therefore it was onto a train and my first experience of European couchettes to Munich.
I remember saving half the breakfast in case the money was not there. However I need not have worried. The teller commented on my obvious relief when she told me.  I splurged on a hotel in the main Square which has been a favourite ever since.

I spent a few days sightseeing then returned north to collect the Kombi with its new engine. I am not sure if I again travelled overnight, I collected the Kombi, returned to London and sold it, and all my journeys in Europe since have favoured train travel.

I began by returning to Europe, this time in the Night Ferry from Victoria Station to Gare du Nord.  I took a sleeper and remember waking to realise the bed was rolling and not rocking as the carriages went onto the ferry and the sleeping passengers were not disturbed.

I took trains from Paris to Geneva, Zermatt, Interlaken, Bern and Zurich but all in daylight. Then it was back to Munich, in those days the doors were locked as the train passed through Austria without stopping to avoid customs formalities. A few more nights in Munich before a daylight train journey to Oostende and overnight sitting up on the ferry to Dover and again by train to London. A few days later I flew back to Sydney.

Take a break, Take a train

I love this advert. Helped by the fact that the duet 'Au fond du temple saint' (In the depths of the temple) from Bizet's 'The Pearl Fishers'  is my favourite piece of opera.
Also I love train travel. I have just booked 8 days and 5 nights oftrain travel in the USA next June-July.  Finally, of course, I never tire of New Zealand scenery.

Taieri Gorge Railway

Every week during summer I volunteer on the Taieri Gorge Railway. Usually I come home very tired after serving food and drinks and helping passengers up and down the steps. Most are very pleasnt but some......  I sometimes wonder if it is worthwhile. Then when I watch this I change my mind.

Rest of Travels

Continuing my journey, I travelled for 5 hours by bus across to the coast. We stopped for lunch in the town of Inverell and then, having gradually climbed the western slopes to the top of the Tablelands at Glen Innes (1062 metres), we drove down the steep eastern escarpment into the Clarence River Valley and the city of Grafton. No Aboriginal names here. The bus does not stop for sightseeing so I have found a photo online of the Upper Clarence Valley from the Gibraltar Range.

I stayed in a motel near the railway station as I had to leave on the 6.30am train on Friday morning. Therefore I had to walk across the Grafton Bridge to reach the main city. The bridge was opened in 1932 and at that time it was the second largest bridge in Australia, having opened a few months after the much large Sydney Harbour Bridge. It is rather unique in that the top deck is used by motor vehicles and the lower deck by the railway. It use to open for shipping but no longer.

The city population is 16,500. I again used a self-guided tour brochure but think it was meant for driving rather than walking as I have worked out that, even after leaving out some of the sections, I had walked about 12 kilometres and had very sore feet when I got back to the motel that afternoon. It is more scenic than Moree having such a wide river. It is renowned for its jacaranda trees but the jacaranda festival is in late October. There were also some magnificent Fig Trees.






It is a cathedral city and I visited Christ Church Cathedral which was opened and dedicated in 1884. I saw there was to be a Eucharist service at 12.30 for the Feast of the Transfiguration and although I did not hurry I found I had completed the western section of the walk and was back near the cathedral at that time so attended.

A young woman deacon took the service and spoke both on the fact it was Hiroshima day as well as being the Feast of the Transfiguration and we prayed that the world might be transfigured for Peace. It was my first time of being at a Eucharist which used the Reserved Sacrament as this is not allowed in the Sydney Diocese.

On Friday I travelled by the train the 880 km back to Sydney taking 10 hours then again the nearly 2 hours back to the mountains. The lovely warm winter weather I had experienced all week changed to cold winds and showers but luckily I only had the cold winds for my long walk homein the dark from the station.

Today I set off for my usual trip to the city for the service of Eucharist at St James. When I reached the station they were announcing the train was running over 30 minutes late. If I had chosen to drive I would not have been able to park as the City to Surf Race is on today and its starts very close to the church. So I returned home, thankful I had received the Eucharist on Thursday.

Travel North by West

I have travelled by train 640 km north west of Sydney to a town called Moree.
My overseas readers will be interested in the names of some of the towns through which we passed.
Murrurundi, Quirindi, Gunnedah, Boggabri and Narrabri.
I guess these are all words of the Gamilaraay language spoken by the Kamilaroi Aboriginal people who live in this area.
I left home just before 7.30am as I had to drag my bag up hill the kilometre to the station, I usually drive.
After my usual train trip to Sydney the country train left just after 10am and arrived Moree at 7pm. Due to my age I receive 4 free vouchers for country train travel within the state each year. I am using 2 of them for the 3 journeys this trip.

Moree has a population of 10,000 with another 15,000 in the surrounding shire. It is fairly flat country producing cattle, sheep, grain crops, cotton and pecan nuts.

Having taken 2 self-guided tours yesterday morning I am now very familiar with the historic buildings and the parks which are nice and green at the end of winter but lacking in flowers this early. Apparently jacarandas and roses would be more evident in late spring.
I visited the art gallery in an old bank building built in 1910. The gallery mainly contained works of the Kamilaroi people. The oldest intact buildings date from the 1890’s. Floods and fires have removed the older ones. Moree was discovered by white explorers in the 1830’s.

All Saints Anglican church was built in 1936. It is in the diocese of Armidale. Armidale is also an evangelical diocese, in fact a greater proportion of its clergy are evangelical than in Sydney. The bishop was trained at Moore College. However, unlike the Sydney bishops, he attended Lambeth. Women are ordained to the priesthood but cannot be in charge of a parish. Being a weekday, the church was closed but I was pleased to see that they have 2 services of Holy Communion every Sunday with an informal service in the evening. This is like the church in which I grew up, evangelical but Anglican. I probably would not agree with them on acceptance of homosexuality but at least they are not trying to split the Communion over a disagreement.

The main reason people visit Moree is to go to the Artesian Baths so I went there in the afternoon. The Great Artesian Basin underlies 20% of the Australian continent. It allowed the development of the grazing industry in Queensland and Northern NSW. The mineral content is too high for cropping.
The Moree bore was sunk in 1895 and is naturally heated by the rocks to 40’C. It is suppose to be healthy and one lady told me she spends 3 weeks in Moree every year.

While I took every chance as a child, teenager and young man to go swimming, I now suffer the effects of the sun in those days. I was not happy unless I was a deep shade of brown, and while I was not muscular at least my body was slim. Sadly I now do not want to display my lily white blotched body and middle age spread. So I have not been swimming for over 15, probably nearer 20 years.

However at the Moree Baths I was probably the youngest taking the waters and certainly my body did not stand out.

I did venture over to the normal baths which are also heated but only to 27’C to check if I remembered how to swim and almost managed 2 laps, having to take a breather two thirds through the 2nd. So that is good to know.

The Moree Baths were a target of a anti-discrimination campaign in 1965 when Freedom riders travelled to the town by bus because Aboriginal people were notallowed in the baths. The leader was Charles Perkins who was the first Aborigine to gain a University degree. He was awarded it in 1966 on the same day as I was awarded my degree. He received a much bigger round of applause, deservedly so.

Moree once had reputation for racial problems but a man on the train told me things had been much better in the last 20 years.

Today I am taking a bus from the plains, across the tablelands and down to the coast , country called Big River Country.